My New York

I have some exciting news: I’m officially a New Yorker! According to conventional wisdom, a resident earns the right to call him- or herself a New Yorker after living in the city for a consecutive decade. My 10th anniversary was just a few weeks ago, on September 26th. That was the first day of my magazine internship in 2004. I was terrified and bright-eyed that first sunny morning, arriving at work nearly 40 minutes early. In that time, the city has kicked me around, picked me back up, consoled me, gutted me, loved me and inspired me. I often compare living in NYC to being a teenager–all of your feelings about the city are amplified to an almost unbearable level; the highs are deliriously high, while the lows are crushingly low. No one is blasé about this place. In order to celebrate my time in this great city, I’ve compiled a list of my favorite places, memories and foods from the past 10 years.

Favorite Memory: As far as nights out go, both my bachelorette party and recent 30th birthday at competing Russian supper clubs Rasputin (now closed) and Tatiana were insanely fun. On a more sentimental note, it’s hard to pick a favorite inspired memory, but most recently, I remember my husband and I standing on our tarred (unauthorized) Brooklyn rooftop on the Fourth of July, watching dozens of fireworks displays from as far away as central Jersey. We could see other people standing on their roofs and hear the echoes and cheers from our neighbors all over the borough as the fireworks started over the Hudson. The city felt incredibly small at that specific moment.

Favorite Thing I’ve Eaten Recently: The brisket at BrisketTown.

Best Pizza: This is actually a three part question. Whole New York-style pie: Guiseppina’s. Slice: Prince St. Pizza for square Sicilian-style slices and Joe’s for traditional. Neopolitan pie: Franny’s and Don Antonio.

Best Bagel: Absolute Bagels and Murray’s Bagels. If I want a great smoked salmon sandwich, Russ & Daughters.

Best Burger: Reynard for a fancy burger. J.G. Melon for a restaurant-style burger. Shake Shack for fast-food style.

Favorite Dessert: Lady M crêpe cake.

Favorite Place to Collect My Thoughts: The Brighton Beach boardwalk. Something about all those old Russians strolling near the beach makes me feel like I’m far away.

Favorite Walk: Down Manhattan’s Westside waterfront, starting at Riverside Park all the way down to Battery Park.

Favorite Place to Explore: Queens! There’s so much to see. I have yet to get to the Bukharian Jewish enclave of Rego Park. It’s the place to eat one of these.

Favorite Restaurant in the Neighborhood: I love the ramen at Prospect Heights favorite, Chuko. James, a modern American restaurant in the same ‘hood, is a close second.

Favorite Bar in the Neighborhood: The Double Windsor in Windsor Terrace. They have good beers, a tasty dark-and-stormy cocktail, and a chill, neighborhoody atmosphere that’s not too divey.

Perfect Day in the City: It’s almost unfair to try and pick a perfect day–there are so many directions in which the day can go! Different “perfect days” can be suited to fit a particular mood or season. The following, though, would be a great Manhattan-centric summertime itinerary. Homemade bagel sandwiches (smoked salmon from Blue Apron Foods and bagels from La Bagel Delight, both down the street from our apartment) then a visit to our local greenmarket followed by a stroll through Central Park and a visit to the Met or Neue Galerie. If we went to the Met, we’d grab a drink on the museum’s rooftop. Then, a burger and beer at J.G. Melon. If we’re not too tired, a leisurely late afternoon movie at classic-movie house Film Forum and a dinner adventure in Brooklyn or Queens–maybe Uzbek food in Sheepshead Bay or Greek in Astoria.

Favorite Tourist Trap: I’m a sucker for the High Line. The converted elevated train track is a feat of urban design surrounded by some of the best architecture in the city.

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From top: Fireworks from our rooftop; a clam pie at Franny’s; the Brighton Beach boardwalk; the unisphere in Flushing Meadows-Corona Park in Queens; the view from the Met’s roof

A Sweets Tour of the Upper East Side

Now that it’s finally beginning to feel like spring outside (knock on wood, spit thrice over your left shoulder, pray to the god of your choosing), it’s time to let your hair down and once again set out on foot across this great city. What better place to start than the Upper East Side? Yes, that Upper East Side. While we weren’t looking the buttoned-up ‘hood has transformed, with the help of a few longtime standouts, into the greatest dessert destination in NYC.

Bakeries and Patisseries

Maison Kayser:  The flagship NYC location of a Parisian-based patisserie, this shop is known for breads and pastry and a healthy collection of American treats like cookies and brownies. A sit-down restaurant is filled with ladies-who-lunch enjoying open faced sandwiches and salads. If you’re sitting down to lunch or dessert, make sure to ask for a bread basket filled with an assortment of bread samples; they won’t bring it to you otherwise.

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FB Patisserie: The fancy older sister to Francois Payard’s downtown bakeries, this location specializes in mousse-based pastry, tarts and French macarons. It’s a best-of compilation of French pastry. In front, there’s a casual cafe perfect for enjoying an eclair and a coffee, while the back is host to an upscale full service restaurant–with prices to match.

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Lady M Confections: This slim minimalist shop is home to one of my favorite cakes ever, the original mille crêpe cake, shown below at right. It’s not cheap ($7.50 a slice), but with 20 paper-thin crêpes and light, not-too-sweet cream layers, it’s an ideal celebratory indulgence. There are other flavors and other cakes, but the original is the superstar. The guidebook writers seem to think so, too, as the shop was packed with tourists during a recent visit.

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William Greenberg Desserts: This shop has been an Upper East Side institution for nearly 60 years. Their famous black-and-white cookies are made in the traditional way (more spongey cake than cookie, fondant icing) and are customizable when ordered in large quantities. They also specialize in Jewish desserts, which for the next two weeks or so means kosher-for-Passover favorites like chocolate-covered matzoh and flour-less brownies.

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Glaser’s Bake Shop: Open for over 100 years, this no-frills shop harkens back to the Upper East Side of yesteryear, back when Yorkville (the name of the eastern section of the neighborhood) was filled with central European immigrants. The influence is evident in their large selection of Danish pastries, but the bakery also specialize in American favorites like cupcakes, brownies, pies and layer cakes. The customer favorite is the black-and-white cookie, which, in contrast to William Greenberg’s they top with fondant and buttercream frosting.

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Orwashers: Our tour of the historic bakeries of the Upper East Side continues, and this one’s a real gem. Orwashers–opened in 1916– churns out award-winning artisan breads; their French baguette was recently declared the best in NYC by Serious Eats. They have pastries, too, as well as filled-to-order doughnuts (chocolate or sugar) with your choice of one of 5 fillings. The red raspberry ($4.25) was everything a jelly doughnut should be.

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Two Little Red Hens: This all-American bakery is extremely popular with the locals, even now, when it’s situated on the wrong side of Second Avenue subway construction. On a recent visit, the shop was out of a lot, and patrons were crowding in to enjoy oversize buttercream-topped cupcakes. The Brooklyn blackout cake is a favorite for birthdays.

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(Image courtesy RichardBerg, Flickr.com; made available via Creative Commons license)

Specialty Bakeries

Canelé by Céline: This tiny adorable bakery specializes in mainly one thing–canelés. These ridged French pastries are marked by a soft, custardy center and a browned caramelized exterior. The shop sells unique flavors like caramel, dark chocolate, raspberry and rum, and even a few varieties of a savory canelés, with chorizo or parmesan cheese. It’ll set you back $4.90 for a pack of three.

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Ladureé: It’s hard to overstate the importance of Ladureé in the Parisian collective consciousness. The mint-green bag is ubiquitous around the city, and Charles de Gaulle airport even has an outpost of the famous shop. The speciality here is French macarons in a rainbow of flavors. The Upper East Side location is the first in the U.S. (one recently opened in Soho as well) and the macarons are just as good as the ones overseas–light meringue, flavorful filling. Their raspberry macaron ($2.80 a piece) is the macaron by which I judge all others.

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Sprinkles Cupcakes: This L.A. transplant is all about the cupcakes ($3.75 a piece). Yes, the cake is moist and the frosting is flavorful, but I think what people are drawn to most is the minimalist design of the shop, something mostly absent from American throwback-style bakeries. Next door is a 24-hour cupcake ATM, which is exactly what it sounds like. You pick your cupcake from a touchscreen, swipe your card, and within seconds, a little door opens with your cupcake of choice enclosed in a to-go box (add $.50 for the convenience). Is it at all necessary? Absolutely not. But it sure is cool.

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Dough Loco: There’s some debate about whether this shop’s location, on Park Ave. and 97th St., constitutes the Upper East Side or East Harlem. We’re not concerned with realtor definitions, just with dessert. The doughnuts ($3 a piece) remind me a lot of the ones from Dough in Bed-Stuy. Both shops feature yeast doughnuts topped with unique coatings. The ones here are smaller, though more dense. Flavors include maple miso, blood orange, raspberry Sriracha, and the below, peanut butter and cassis. Blue Bottle coffee products help you wash them down.

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Le Churro: I have a soft spot for churros. After all, what’s not to love? Freshly fried dough drenched in sugar and served with a chocolate dipping sauce. The ones here (4 for $3.95) are thin and light, in contrast to the heavy churros of the subway platform and Costco cafe (hey, if you’re in a bind…). They offer multiple dipping sauces (chocolate hazelnut, sweet mocha, to name a few), chocolate covered churros, bite-sized churros and even filled churros, for those too lazy to dip.

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Ô Merveilleux Belgian Meringue: I had never heard of Belgian meringues before, but they’re the specialty at this quaint new Second Avenue shop. These treats, which come in two sizes, layer meringue and whipped cream and are topped with chocolate shavings or speculoos cookie crumbs. The small, at $2.70, is plenty sweet to satisfy a serious dessert craving. They have other offerings too, including cupcakes, croissants, cakes, cookies, brioche and tarts.

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