Favorite Things Lately, Volume 5

Garry Winogrand exhibit at The MetPhotography often elicits the most visceral reaction of any art form. A single shot can invoke beauty, joy, struggle and serenity, all within the same image. When people are the subjects, the photographs become a kind of mirror, reflecting ourselves back to us, conjuring and illuminating the entire spectrum of human emotion. I, admittedly, hadn’t heard of Garry Winogrand until this exhibit (on view through September 21st), but now count him among one of my favorite photographers. I especially loved his vibrant shots of late fifties and early sixties NYC, which showcase the beautiful, controlled chaos of the city’s streets. What’s amazing is how many of these photographs were printed posthumously, so we as an audience get to experience the power of the shots he took but was never able to fully digest. An evocative quote accompanied one of his images: “Sometimes I feel…the world is a place I bought a ticket to. It’s a big show for me, as if it wouldn’t happen if I wasn’t there with a camera.”

Garry Winogrand (American, 1928–1984) New York World's Fair 1964 Gelatin silver print San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, Gift of Dr. L.F. Peede, Jr. © The Estate of Garry Winogrand, courtesy Fraenkel Gallery, San Francisco

Garry Winogrand (American, 1928–1984)
New York World’s Fair
1964
Gelatin silver print
San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, Gift of Dr. L.F. Peede, Jr.
© The Estate of Garry Winogrand, courtesy Fraenkel Gallery, San Francisco

2. Buffalo chicken sandwich at Bobwhite Lunch &  Supper CounterSome people search the city far and wide for the best iteration of a burger or New York-style pizza or even soup dumplings. For the past 10 years, I’ve been on a quest for one of my favorite dishes ever–the most mundane of suburban staples: the Buffalo chicken sandwich. It’s easy enough to find in small-town USA but nearly impossible to track down here.  All of this is why I may have shed a tear when I bit into Bobwhite’s version for the first time last summer (and then a few more when I had it again a few weeks ago).  The chicken, usually subdivided into large strips, is incredibly flavorful–Bobwhite brines their chicken overnight in sweet tea!–and is coated in tangy-hot-buttery Buffalo sauce. It’s technically a special, but I’ve seen it on the menu every time I’ve come in.

bobwhitebuffalochicken

3. The Falls cocktail at Weather Up in Brooklyn: I’m not sure why this is the case, but fancy cocktails tend to taste better in the summer. Perhaps it’s because a good drink is best enjoyed outdoors, basking in the warmth of a summer evening (or, desperately swatting at ferocious mosquitos hellbent on your destruction; potato, po-tah-to). Weather Up in Prospect Heights serves one of my favorite drinks I’ve had this season. It includes all of the best things in the world: honey, lemon, bourbon, mint, ginger and, since it’s a fancy Brooklyn cocktail bar and including these is the law (see Sec. 102.3 of the libation code), Angostura Bitters. They like to change things up every few weeks, so it’s technically no longer on their official menu, but they’ll make it for you if you ask nicely.

thefallsweatherup

4. New catch Holland herring at Russ & Daughters Cafe (and original shop): My love of herring was instilled in me from an early age while crowded around celebratory tables filled with Russian delicacies. I didn’t know what herring could be until I had this variety. New Catch Holland herring is to regular old herring as pasta at the best trattoria in Italy is to Chef Boyardee. This herring is salty and buttery in a way only the best fatty fish can be. The newly opened cafe serves it the same way as the original takeout shop has for years, with chopped onions and chopped cornichons, and with an optional hot dog bun. It’s a seasonal specialty and only available for a few more weeks.

newcatchhollandherring

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25 Years of Seinfeld’s New York

Seinfeld, probably the greatest sitcom of our time, premiered on NBC 25 years ago, on July 5th. Though ostensibly a show about nothing, Seinfeld proved to be about nearly everything. It had a unique way of honing in on every kind of social triviality, lending the most mundane interactions a comic ridiculousness and relatability. At its heart, it was a show about who we think we are versus who we really are. Jerry, George and Elaine all longed to be viewed as decent people and to pat themselves on the back for their good deeds all while doing some pretty reprehensible things. As an example: George buys a chair for a security guard so the guard doesn’t have to stand all day, and, in a separate episode, pushes children and the elderly aside so he can be the first to escape a fire. Kramer, on the other hand, was the foil, content to be just who he was.

Elaine Benes is one of my favorite female TV characters ever, despite being a not-so-great person. She could hang with the boys without having to emulate them. She was sexual without being sexualized. And she was funny. Like, really funny. And not funny by doing gender-specific schtick. Just, well, funny. I’d say, punch for punch, she landed some of the best zingers on the show. The character is a testament to Julia Louis-Dreyfus’s range as an actor.

It was also a show about New York City. Yes, the situations were relatable no matter your zip code, but NYC dwellers had a unique window into the world of Seinfeld. A few storylines that would garner knowing nods from New Yorkers:

  • Elaine giving a false address in order to have really good Chinese food delivered to her apartment. (“If we deliver to you, then what, 85th Street, Wall Street, Mexico, 84th Street…?”)
  • George, Elaine and Jerry’s ultimately fruitless hunt for the perfect apartment
  • Elaine’s screaming inner monologue when the subway breaks down
  • Elaine leading a group that includes a pregnant woman and a priest under a set of bleachers in order to find an escape route out of the Puerto Rican Day parade
  • Elaine and Jerry’s determination to bring a chocolate babka to a party (“You can’t beat a babka.”), then settling for cinnamon.
  • Kramer telling Jerry that if he doesn’t want to be a part of society, he should move to the East Side.
  • Kramer, lost and scared, calling Jerry and telling him he’s in the “Nexus of the Universe”: the intersection of 1st Street and 1st Avenue. (“How can the same street intersect with itself?”)

 

babka

“Cinnamon takes a backseat to no babka”

The Artisanal Ice Cream Takeover of NYC

Back in October of 2012, my husband and I heard Fred Armisen and Carrie Brownstein speak to an audience of New Yorkers. The stars of the affectionately-hipster-satirizing IFC show Portlandia were asked what trendy import from Portland we New Yorkers could expect in the immediate future. Fred answered that weirdly flavored, super-popular, hyper-local, small-batch artisanal ice cream didn’t really seem like a big thing here in NYC, and that Portlanders were waiting in block-long lines for flavors like goat cheese-marionberry-habanero at purveyor Salt & Straw and many others around the city. “Ice cream is on its way,” he had declared.

Like a self-consciously ironic plot line straight out of Portlandia, he turned out to be right, off-handedly predicting NYC’s next big dessert trend. Is Fred Armisen some kind of soothsayer? Or are we just that predictable? American culinary ingenuity doesn’t always start here, the way we’d like to think it does. Small town shops across the country, like Jeni’s in Columbus, Ohio, have been doing this sort of thing for years, and it seems New Yorkers were ready for a deluge of some high-brow ice cream of their own.

Stalwart shops like Sundaes and Cones in the East Village (and before that Bay Ridge) and Cones in the West Village, both with impressive rosters of unique flavors, had been open for decades, but the wave really began about a year before Fred’s pronouncement, with the opening of Ample Hills Creamery in Prospect Heights in the spring of 2011. The shop, with addictive flavors like Salted Crack Caramel and Bubblegum, was so popular it had to close for a bit soon after opening in order to re-stock its ice cream supply. Ample Hills also had the pedigree of being one of the only shops in the country at the time to produce all of its ice cream, including the base, entirely from scratch, on-site. Very Portland-esque, indeed. The shop is now expanding to Gowanus, the site of their new production facility, and has an outpost at Brooklyn Bridge Park as well as a new cookbook.

I guess Fred saw the writing on the wall? After his pronouncement, Oddfellows Ice Cream Co., with flavors like Chorizo Caramel Swirl and Cornbread, opened in Williamsburg in the spring of 2013 and recently expanded to the East Village. Here are three more artisan ice cream shops, all opened since last summer, the last two just within the the last month-and-a-half.

1. Davey’s Ice Cream, East Village According to Grubstreet, David Yoo, owner of Davey’s Ice Cream is a former graphic designer whose true calling was ice cream. He quit his job and enrolled in Penn State’s ice cream short course. (Incidentally, it’s the same course taken by Ample Hills founder Brian Smith, who was a Sci-Fi writer in his pre-ice cream life.)  Per EV Grieve, David, like Smith, produces all of the ice cream from scratch right in the his tiny shop and with local ingredients like Battenkill Valley Creamery cream and milk. There’s a cast of permanent flavors like Strong Coffee and Mexican Vanilla Bean as well as a handful of rotating, experimental flavors. I missed out on Ultra Babka from a few weeks ago (the babka is supplied by Moishe’s Bake Shop, a block away-not sure you can get more local than that), but enjoyed the below super-chunky Brunch! flavor filled with brioche French toast, cinnamon-maple syrup and coffee-glazed bacon. daveys2 Daveys

2. Morgenstern’s Finest Ice Cream, Lower East Side Started by restaurant alum Nick Morgenstern, who’d amassed an ice cream-lover following thanks to a cart outside Fort Greene’s General Greene restaurant, this parlor kicks things up far higher than a notch. A few nights ago I observed NYC’s own “Mr. Chocolate” Jacques Torres sampling the Durian Banana ice cream. He remarked that it had “a very distinct durian flavor.” Durian is a Southeast Asian fruit often banned from public spaces because of the offensive odor it produces when its studded exterior is cut open. Also on the menu: American Egg ice cream, a Jungle Bird cocktail sorbet and dozens of other flavors. My husband was angling for the Szechuan Peppercorn Chocolate. The ice cream is eggless and low in sugar (for flavor-not health-reasons, per Grubstreet), but doesn’t taste discernibly less rich or flavorful than standard ice cream. The below Chocolate Oat ice cream in a waffle cone was a winner. morgensterns3 morgensterns2

3. Hay Rosie Craft Ice Cream, Carroll Gardens I wasn’t 100 percent sold on the encompassing nature of this trend until I walked over to this brand new shop two weeks after it first opened. It was around 3 p.m. on a beautiful early summer day-in other words, prime ice cream time. The door was locked and a sign hanging outside the shop read “sold out,” invoking the great Ample Hills rush of 2011 and proving that New Yorkers have a seemingly insatiable appetite for uniquely crafted small-batch ice cream. Shop owner Stef Ferrari, like Yoo and Smith, is also an alum of the Penn State ice cream course, and churns out everything-from-scratch eggless flavors like Sriracha popcorn, which is distinctively hot, and the satisfying Bananas Ferrari (bel0w), with brown butter, Muscovado sugar, bananas, salt and malt. Her focus is on manufacturing, with the shop functioning as a tasting room on weekends.

hayrosie2 hayrosie

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